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Guide · Winter

Houseplants in winter: light, heating and watering

In winter, plants rest. They need less water, but suffer from the lack of light and the dry air from heating. The secret of the season: do less, but better.

Updated on 6 October 2026

In short

  • Water less, with room-temperature water, only once the soil has dried.
  • Give them as much light as you can, without leaves touching the cold glass.
  • Keep them away from radiators and bring back a little humidity around them.
  • No fertiliser, no repotting: let them rest.

Water less: the most important step

In winter, a houseplant grows little and its soil dries slowly. The most common mistake of the season is overwatering: the roots stay wet, run short of air, and rot. In our care guides, winter watering is on average almost twice as spaced out as in summer.

PlantSpring and summerAutumn and winter
Monsteraevery 7 daysevery 2 weeks
Pothosevery 7 daysevery 12 days
Fiddle-leaf figevery 8 daysevery 2 weeks
Calathea orbifoliaevery 4 daysevery 7 days
Snake plantevery 2 weeksevery 30 days

Succulents go even further: the aloe vera, the bunny ears cactus, the golden barrel cactus, the African milk tree, the haworthia, the living stones, the mammillaria, the Madagascar palm, the ponytail palm, the burro's tail, the desert rose, the snake plant and the cylindrical snake plant are happy with about one watering a month. Before each watering, feel the soil: if it's still moist an inch down, wait. Water in the morning if you can, with room-temperature water: cold tap water shocks the roots.

Light, what they miss most

From December to February, days are short and the sun is low. It's often the lack of light, more than the cold, that makes plants suffer: stretching stems, pale or falling leaves. Move them as close to the windows as you can. Winter sun is gentle: even plants that fear it in summer cope with it.

Just watch out for the glass itself: at night it gets very cold, and a leaf touching it can freeze. Don't leave your plants trapped between the curtain and the window overnight either. Dust the large leaves with a damp cloth: dust steals their light. For a really dark room, a small LED grow light, switched on a few hours a day, makes a big difference.

Heating and dry air

Heated air is often very dry, much drier than in the tropical forests most of our plants come from. The signs: brown, dry leaf tips, especially on calatheas, ferns and palms. To help them:

  • Keep them away from radiators, at least 3 ft (1 m) if possible.
  • Group them: together, they keep a little humid air around them.
  • Stand the pots on a tray of damp clay pebbles, without the bottom of the pot touching the water.
  • Mist the foliage of the ones that like it: 67 of our care guides recommend it, such as the monstera, calatheas or the Boston fern.
  • A humidifier is still the most effective for the most demanding.

Draughts and cold

Most houseplants are happy between 61 and 72 °F (16 and 22 °C). They hate sudden changes: when you air the room, move the ones near the open window. The weeping fig is known for dropping its leaves at the slightest draught or move: find it a spot, and leave it there. On the other hand, some winter flowering plants like it cool, such as the cyclamen or the azalea: a barely heated room makes their flowers last longer.

No fertiliser, no repotting

Winter is the season of rest. A plant that grows little doesn't need fertiliser, and repotting would disturb it without letting it settle into its new pot. Wait for spring for both. Only plants flowering at this time of year, like the cyclamen, are an exception.

Winter problems

Lower leaves turning yellow

Cause: often too much water for the season. What to do: water less often and check that water drains through the pot's hole.

Long stems and pale leaves

Cause: not enough light. What to do: move the plant closer to the window; in spring, cut back the stems that are too long.

Brown leaf tips

Cause: dry air from the heating. What to do: move it away from the radiator and raise the humidity around it.

Fine webbing under the leaves

Cause: spider mites, which love warm, dry air. What to do: shower the foliage, isolate the plant, and raise the humidity.

This advice is for houseplants in a temperate climate. Every home is different: trust your plant too, and the soil under your finger.